Jax again...cold beer, bad food and a surprise in the middle of nowhere

The problem with business travel is that, for someone like me that likes to explore and eat and drink from the local establishments, your not always able to do that.

When I was in Jax, as the locals call it, last time I was working from 4 PM to midnight or so.  I was able to get out to the beaches, the museums, listen to live jazz music while sipping wine because I didn't have to show up to work till later.  This time I was mostly working days with small groups of two or three people teaching them the in's and out's of our difficult but important job.  This shift was really not conducive to getting out and exploring the city.  Which was a shame because I like what I've seen of Jacksonville.  I like the ocean and the history in nearby St Augustine.  I like that Jacksonville seems to be a city just on the edge of defining itself.

I like that I found a pretty cool place called King street that had some funky little restaurants and shops on it.  One place, called the Silver Cow, impressed me so much that I know I would be mentioning it to all my beer loving friends.  Beer and wine tasting has always been a passion of mine.

What is it about small hole in the wall places that attract me so? The Silver Cow had nice semi-modern art on the wall, tin type on the ceilings and an old wood bar and about 25 to 30 craft beers on tap.  Including such oddities as Barleywine.  Sadly their menu selection left a lot to be desired and by the time I reached them the kitchen appeared to have been closed.  I missed the live jam session they had the previous night with local musicians that apparently spilled into the street causing an impromptu dance party on the sidewalks.  Yea, my kind of dive.

The next night it was recommended that I try a place nearby called Kickbacks Gastropub.  I'm always up for an adventure and was told that they had a very good beer selection and  a nice menu.  I should have guessed by the hipsters hanging outside this wasn't the place for me.  I've been friends with musicians and artists for most of my life.  You develop an eye for "posers", they are generally the ones that develop a certain look but either don't have the talent or the desire to put in the hard work needed to actually develop a talent.  This place seemed to attract them like a moth to a flame.

I ordered the french dip and...do you know how hard it is to screw up a french dip?  Somehow this place did that.  At least the beer, in this case a nice 22 oz (65 cl German Hefeweizen) beer was cold.  Yet the beer list left a lot to be desired.  I was expecting some unusual brews, not the same stuff I find in any restaurant anywhere.

At least the night was warm and I managed to find a nice little tree filled park with a bird island in the center of it.  I meandered past some good street art and gardens, past old southern homes built in the 1950's that the locals still took pride in and some interesting people.

A long time ago on  Back Road Motorcycling Riding, I read about the Yearling Restaurant located in Cross Keys, Florida.  It seems that this odd little place was influenced by Pulitzer Prize winning writer Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings, who made her fortune from the novel; The Yearling, and whose home was nearby.  The menu features local game such as venison, quail, gator, turtle and duck.  I've had all these dishes before and have been wanting to stop every since reading the original blog post.  Sadly the lunch menu only offered venison so I simply had to settle for the best blackened shrimp that I've ever had.  

Although I have to admit that the outside is a bit....daunting.  Getting there can be an adventure because frankly it's in the middle of nowhere and just to the left of bumf*ck.  However it was on my way home so stopping was never in question.

When I walked in I heard the rich baritone of an elderly blues singer that reminded me that art and a woman's love are worth selling your soul to the devil for.

Old books and antiques covered the walls and created a warm welcoming atmosphere.  Pencil art and aged yellowing photographs covered the wall.  I considered ordering a glass of wine from across the way and spending some time there and at the nearby homestead of Ms Rawlings, but time was fleeting as I had to return the company's rental car.

So I add another spot to the list, another place that I have to return to some day.  That list keeps getting longer and longer but the days keep dwindling down.  It's all part of growing up I suppose.

Book Store or Library?  No, the Yearling

Inside the Yearling

I can't help but wonder who plays here normally.

It's not hell, it's just Jacksonville, Florida

Sometimes it's nice to get away.  To do something different and unique and break out of your comfort zone a bit.  I found myself in Jacksonville, Florida to help train some others and take a little mini-vacation from the other job that I do.  I have to admit that I've also been playing around with the idea of applying for an open management position here in Jacksonville and wanted to look about some.

In the end I decided not to apply for it.  Yea, I want to move up in the company (and frankly feel that I've been passed over one to many times), but Jacksonville isn't for me.  I've got to much going on right now to consider moving.  Still though...it's a nice idea and the Jacksonville/St Augustine area offers a lot for a guy like me.  The lovely Sue ended up visiting me over the weekend and we visited the beaches, looked about and had two days of relaxation.

A monster hunts on the beaches

Unlike my last trip to Jacksonville, I was actually able to get away and do some exploring.  I even considered renting a scooter for a few hours as I meandered the back streets of St Augustine.  I opted out of that option, but did consider it.  Despite the title of this blog, it was a good trip and if travel has taught me anything - personal, pleasure or business - it's to be open to the possibilities.

Their might be a proverbial diamond in the rough, a three star restaurant in what you think might be a hick back-ass town in the middle of nowhere Florida.  Or how the guy that used to sell you pot in college and haven't seen in years just might own a farm now just about an hour north of Jacksonville, and have the (2nd) coolest woman ever as his wife. So I got to spend about two hours with them and, at the end, he offered to sell me some pot (which I did turn down).

A little winery in St Augustine which offered some very sweet (almost to sweet) wines but also offered jazz on the roof top over looking the St Johns River.  Watching the World Cup in a bar full of strangers and the joy and disappointment that the beautiful game grants us.   Strangers enter and friends emerge, united by the colors of their chosen side.

A visit to one of the local museums lead to an odd moment.  I walked into one of the old clapboard homes that were on display, only dating only back 100 years, and realizing that I was alone.  Realizing that I could slip behind the velvet ropes and actually touch some history...do I dare to do so?

Another room contained an old train.  An iron and steel ghost of the influence of Henry Flagler.  Who for all practical purposes built up the east coast of Florida and developed the Keys.  Florida owes a lot to the rails and the state was not really developed until the 1920's and Flagler's various hotels and rail efforts.  Disney of course was another developing force in the state but that is another topic for another blog.

One of the trains that built modern Florida

An old church in Jacksonville beach

Behind the ropes.

An old clapboard style Florida home

Old School Kitchen

Wanderlust

And now on with the show.

Kimmie roared to life the other night, yes roared.  I could just hear her say, in the petulant voice of a pretty Korean girl..."I need to go further, I need speed.  I need the open road.  It's been so long since we gone on a long ride!"

Perhaps it's the summer weather but I have gotten tired of the daily commute.  I am up for an adventure, I need...no, crave something different.  I've been reading blogs like Road Pickle, Riding the Wet Coast and Scoot Commute,  I envy their tales of long trips and adventures and just doing something different for a change.

I suppose every rider experiences that need in their life to just keep going, to see what's down the road and around that corner.   In our case I've been thinking about a ride to St Augustine.  Sue and I visited recently but traveled by car with my family.  The idea of taking the bike there has appealed to me for some time.  I know that Kimmie will hold a overnight bag without issue, so a weekend trip is within grasp.  I feel ready to make such a trip.  I suppose given enough time I'll want to travel the country.

Only two issues.  I don't have any (unplanned) vacation time left this year, so  it needs to be next year.  Susan has been using my jacket and back up helmet so we still need to get her proper gear.  Plus she is not feeling comfortable behind me.
She has confidence in my ability, but I am a full foot (0.30 m) taller than her.  So she sees nothing but the back of my helmet (and I refuse to ride without a helmet).  At a little over 200 pounds (90.7 kilos) I'm very good at blocking air flow.  So she's hot, with pins in her back from a car accident in her teenage years she needs to sit a certain angle to be comfortable.  That may not be possible on the bike.  Funny how you learn new things about someone you have been with for a long time.  I've a feeling we will be doing more 2-up riding in the fall and winter when the temperatures fall to a much more manageable degree.  Now that I'm used to having her back there, I can't imagine riding without her.

Kimmie quotes Keiichi Sisawa in my ear:   I would think that a motorrad's purpose in life is to go places isn't it?  The traveler's purpose in life is to travel.  - from Kino no tabi.  "Let's go." she whispers.   I turn the throttle and she purrs.  I think of Jack Kerouac “Nothing behind me, everything ahead of me, as is ever so on the road.”

She whispers, demanding now...."Let's go for a ride"

Going further

One very big ant.

This is the last time I'll be mentioning the E2E rally for a bit. Where I have yet to exhaust all the "local"  bonus points that I can gather (I recently found several historical markers and graveyards).  It's time for me to go out and explore other areas.  To go 50, 100, 150 miles down the road in search of something as simple as police stations and post offices (worth 2 points)...or as something as unusual as a giant strawberry painted on top of a water tower (worth 7 points).

http://www.northcountrypublicradio.net

I am looking forward to this adventure.  As much as I loved riding the Burgman, a maxi-scooter built for comfort and touring, my current Kmyco seems to want to go further.  It seems that it wants that adventure.  I feel more confident now as a rider, more able to handle the road and the challenges it represents.  My goal for the rally is a top 25 finish (I am # 096  in the rally and you can see where I've been here although the site is slow to update).

My game plan is a simple one.  Gather up points every single day I can.  Submit.  Then repeat.  Of course now that I have to leave my comfort zone and range out further than I have in the past that plan will have to be modified somewhat.  For example, I have my route all planned out for spending a day in Tampa and gathering over 200 points.  Up until now I was able to run around before work.  Now I have to take a day trip.  To be gone for 3 or more hours in some cases...all because my pride demands I finish in the top 25.  I better get a tee-shirt out of this at least!  I better change out my heavy jacket for a lighter one as well.

It does exist!!!

I was in St. Augustine recently (the past two days) but did not ride my bike over since I was with my parents, which prevented me from riding every day.  Now I desire to ride to St. Augustine even more (some wonderful back roads and things to see).  Florida's somewhat tragic past - war, slavery, racism, the 2000 election -  and recent E2E planning has brought up some interesting sites, some things that I would have never of considered going to see.  For example, I can go and visit the World's largest Confederate flag and associated military monument.  Question is...should I?


You can't miss this from the highway.  It brings up mixed feelings in me.  My family lost sons in both sides of the conflict, and we actually have letters from long dead nephews and uncles that fought on different sides in the same battles.  As a human being that has friends of all colors, creeds, sexual preferences and political beliefs the flag also represents some of the worst in we humans. I am also smart enough to know that racism has deep roots and I've done or said things that are racist.  I'm human despite my best efforts.

 Points are points however...and I am not that desperate to finish in the top 25.

This is Florida after all, and sometimes I do see racism.  I also see hope in that, for the most part, Florida is a melting pot of Latino's, Whites and Blacks and every color in between and somehow we all manage to get along.   That's something to be celebrated.  That's something to be encouraged.  That's worth a day trip for.

St Augustine Lighthouse